Friday, 8 March 2013

Final Miss Havisham Images



Final Estella Images



Scratches Make-up Trials


Scratches

·        Supracolor palette
·        Ben Nye bruise wheel
·        Stipple sponge

1.     Stipple the sponge into the red colour from the supracolor palette.
2.     Add some of the purple onto the sponge aswell. (optional)
3.     Press firmly on the skin and swipe lightly upwards.
4.     Add yellow around the scratch to create an aged scratch and   discolouration.
5.     Add purple to make the scratch look deeper then intended.


Bruise Make-Up Trials


Bruises


·        Ben Nye bruise Wheel

·        Kryolan Supracolour palette

·        Angled powder puff



1.  Pat the purple colour from the wheel in the corner of the eye    outwards onto cheekbones.
2.  Add the dark blue and green within the purple and blend in.

3.  Bring the purple colour onto the upper lid and blend from the inner corner.

4.  Add the green colour around the cheek area towards the edge of the bruise.

5.  Pat the yellow around the edges of the bruise and blend into natural skin to create aged bruises.

6.  Use the powder puff and red from the supracolor palette to get the darkest colour into the corner of the eye.







Tuesday, 5 March 2013

Victorian Style Sketches



Victorian Secret Recipes for Make-Up

When the Victorian era comes across your mind, the classic image of Victorian beauty comes to mind. The pure, creamy complexion with ripe lips, sparkling eyes and soft, fluttering lashes. This look was supposed to be a gift that comes naturally, however it was extremely common for young Victorian women to undertake secret recipes and home-made remedies to achieve this desired look. 

How to remove suntan
Bitter almonds
Oxymurite of quicksilver
Sal ammoniac

How to remove wrinkles
Pineapple juice
Pimpernel water
Fresh boiled beans

How to remove freckles
Turpentine
Camphor

Good for skin
Fresh cucumber juice
Spinach flowers
Strawberry juice

Other interesting ingredients
Orange juice (sparkles the eyes)
Strips of raw beef (night-time moisturiser)
Elderberry juice
Burnt Cork
Red ribbon soaked in Brandy

Miss Havisham Make-Up Charts



With the face charts for the character of Miss Havisham, I wanted to use the same idea I did with Estella and show a progression in character between the two images almost like a before and after. Miss Havisham's decline is a key subject in Dickens novel therefore I feel it would be appropriate for me to include this into my work. With the first image, it is sometime after Miss Havisham was jilted at the alter, therefore her hairstyle is still fresh and her make-up has only slightly aged due to her anguish. For the hair, two soft ringlets frame the face with the rest up in a typical Victorian wedding hairstyle. The hair will be decorated with pearls and wedding ornaments to suit the theme. The face is only softly started to decline, heavy bags and grey skin vaguely appear in Miss Havisham's face and her lips stained from the pink from the wedding. There is a visible progress between two images as the second one shows Miss Havisham with severely stressed skin and hair. The cheeks have been made to look hollow as if there has been a lack of food and care, there are purple bags under the eyes and cuts and grazes due to cracking of skin. The hair is the same hairstyle as the previous image just disheveled over time. 

Estella Make-up Chart



These are some trial charts for Estella's two looks. What I intend to do is create two images as a sort of before and after. The first image will be Estella in her prime as a young, Victorian woman. This will be reflected through the soft make-up that retains her youth and innocence. Her hair will be styled for a typical young Victorian woman, with tight ringlets framing her face and the rest pushed into an elegant bun. My model with have long hair so there will be lots to work with and the hair will be an elaborate hairstyle along these lines. The second image will be Estella a couple of years after the time the first image is meant to of been taken, her make-up is reduced, almost as if she doesn't care anymore. Bruise make-up will be used as it relates to the character and it shows a progression in character. The hair is less intricate and more practical, again to emphasize change in the character. 

Victorian Flower Bun Trials


Victorian Flower Bun
·         Single barrel curling tongs
·         Bobby pins
·         Hair pins
·         Pintail comb
·         Hairspray
·         Hairband

Section the hair into a T at the front, and tie the crown of the hair into a tight
low bun.

Take the ponytail and section it into four equal pieces.

With one section of hair, backcomb and then barrel turn it into the scalp
outwards.

Secure the turn with two bobby pins on either side.

Continue this with the remaining three sections, creating a “flower”

Bring the four barrel turns together by using a pin to manipulate the hair to blend
into a flower bun.

If desired, take a few strands from the T-section and plait into the bun.

With the remaining hair in the T-section, use the single barrel curling tongs.

Take a piece of hair and clamp into the tongs, roll upwards towards the scalp.

Hold for 10-12 seconds place the comb beneath the tongs and the hair to prevent
burning.

Remove the comb and release the curl, then pin the curl until the hair cools so
the curl holds.

Repeat this with the rest of the hair, according to the parting.

 Once all the hair has been curled and pinned, release the curls and style
accordingly.

Studio taught "flower" bun.


My own interpretation of the "flower" bun.

Estella Styling Ideas

Hair                                          Complexion
Tight ringlets                                               Perfect complexion
Clean middle parting                                     Slightly lighter than natural 
Dark brown hair                                            skin colour
Victoria flower bun at the crown                      Rosy pink blusher
Softly coloured ribbons                                  Slightly darker lashes                                  
Sleek immaculate curls                                  Softly shaped eyebrows

Victorian Women's Fashion

This era saw many changes in fashion with regards to clothes, literature, architecture and jewellery. Fashion was at a high during the Victorian period as custom and home sewing were becoming scarce, although significant, due to the factory made clothes becoming increasingly popular. Richer, finer fabrics and colours were being used which meant that styling could go to levels it hadn't reached in the past. Fabrics such as silks and cottons were being used in mass to create the bodices and skirts. Lace machinery meant that it could be made at a cheaper price, which is beneficial as lace was commonly used. 

Fashion in the 1840-1850 time period.
The era opened with a very different style to how it closed. Gowns in the 1840's & 50's had developed wide-puffed sleeves in a simple pale colour and style. Flower trimmings were softly added to the hem of the skirt and waistbands, but it was never to much. Corsets, petticoats and bodice's were all included as well as a low neckline and off the shoulder sleeves with a shawl draped over the shoulders of a similar, soft colour. 
1870's uncorseted gown.
During the era, the style changed to uncorseted tea downs for informal wear in the 70's, then moved on to olden-style riding wear, with high-collared shirts and top hats, draped floor length style skirts paired with boots and an extremely fitted coat on top during 1880.
Riding style during the 1880's.
In the final decade of the era, high collars held in place with stiff steel boning in corsets and tiny synched-in waists. This style was very postured and controlling, which then transformed into a very different style for the start of the next century. The bodice shape was triangular, with an enhanced upper body and puffed sleeves. Wide-brimmed hats became extremely popular amongst upper-class women and the hats were typically covered in intricate designs of ribbons and silk flowers. 

The new fashion of 1900
Steel boned corsets in 1890.




















Victorian fashion on a whole is one that was very versatile and ever-changing. The styles and dress patterns were all about good, high posture and emphasizing the entire female body and have the fabric fit perfectly. Colours started to come into use during the Victorian period, as well as colour photography and painting coming into play. Overall, the period produced some amazing styles that will continue to be recreated and adapted as the years go on.

Estella Storyboard


Great Expectations Moodboard


This mood board allowed me to gather and combine all my visual research in relation to the Charles Dickens brief. The Victorian era was one where culture and society were at its highest, and there are many aspects of this era to consider when discussing and portraying the work of Charles Dickens. As my project is more fashion related, I chose to focus on these aspects of the time, with special focus on woman in the Victorian period. Precious materials and jewellery was being incorporated into Victorian lifestyle, with intricate necklaces and with thin bands and big opaque pearls.  The atmosphere during this period always seemed gloomy and depressing, predominantly due to the poor English weather. These images used in the mood board were all inspiration from this era, portraying my initial thoughts and themes from the Victorian period.